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Perpetual Motion - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock (Trad)
1
Pro to 3.5", gear anchor (hands)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Overhung hands to off-fingers leading up to perpetual hands.

Descent Options:

Scramble across top to climber's left and back, crossing an abyss by downclimbing a handcrack with good feet and then stepping over, then scramble down and counterclockwise back to the start.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-02-26
Last Modified: 2006-11-30
Views: 669
Route ID: 33301

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-02-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Have to keep moving...

I fell repeatedly at the crux. The off-fingers-hands portion just above the overhang shut me down until I figured out the key beta: one just has to keep moving (hence the name?) despite one's hand jams in the too-narrow crack are continuously slipping out. On lead I suppose I was reluctant to keep moving up with my insecure handjam slowly slipping out. This was my mistake. After belaying up my second, I tried the route again on toprope, putting this beta into practice - got it clean. At the crux I could not get a solid handjam, but never the less moved off it anyway, to another insecure jam, to another, then to a better jam, then to a jug hold. After that its probably 5.8 handcrack to the top. So, maybe the crux is more psychological - one has to be willing to move quickly through the crux on handjams that are slipping out and _not_ stop to try to improve the quality of the jam (or place gear). I was just too timid to do this on lead I suppose. But, the route takes great pro. I'm looking forward to trying for the redpoint sometime soon.

Also, found the walkoff to be a bit involved. Never did find a way back to the start of the route, so walked off to the valley floor. It would be _really_ nice if someone installed rap-rings at the top.

Added: 2010-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snowey on 2008-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars intersection rock bbq weekend

Great climb. Significantly easier than the 10c finger crack around the corner.

Added: 2008-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2008-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What bird shit?

I didn't notice any guano, but this climb kicks ass. Protects like a dream, killer jams, powerful moves, amazing setting...Yeah...

Added: 2008-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: bandycoot on 2006-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Best 5.10 hands in the park?

Beautiful route, beautiful setting, great climb overall. Too bad it's so short! Crack has some bird shit in it though..... Perfect for a cold windy day. The route is up high, but I went from 4 layers to a t-shirt as I approached the base that day.

Added: 2006-12-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: baja_java on 2006-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

315 at 160 the morning before. no tape, no chalk, in summer, in sun

Witnessed by: tim
Added: 2006-05-21

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