Hobblet - 5.7

FS

This is by far, the worst 5.7 I've ever had to do. The roof through the crack is crazy... there's no positive holds over the rounded roof, and the crack size was absolutely impossible for me to jam. I over protected the heck out of it, and finally topped out over it with strange combination of forearm and shoulder jam.

Then there's a long section of slab that's completely unprotected (no bolts). My second, who is also a woman with top end at 11, agrees that this is very sketchy, possibly because we have smaller hands. I think I might have actually whined on this climb (a serious no no in my book).

Not to mention the "walk off" is impossible to find and not really a walk at all (more like a downclimb). Wow... me, not happy. Will not be repeating this experience.

awesome crack!

This turned out to be a fun route. We jumped on it when we found a line waiting for The Bong. Getting to the roof required a bit of a reach for me, and then getting under, out, and on top of the roof involved some interestingly contorted moves... word of advice?.. stretch first! The comments are correct, there is protection when you need it though, as long as you're flexible enough to get it where you want it. Ha ha ha...

One more note, my older Joshua Tree Falcon Guide illustrates this as being on the arette, but in fact this route is the crack and roof just to the right of the 2-bolted 5.10 arette. The newer books I believe have it shown correctly.

Andrew lead it.