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Hobblet - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.25/5 Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
thin-medium gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

A 5.7 with a small roof...hmmm...entertaining to say the least with good pro when it matters. Close to the Bong on the Blob

Submitted by: saltspringer on 2001-11-04
Last Modified: 2007-02-20
Views: 1211
Route ID: 6589

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: ericfoltz on 1997-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Solo

FS

Added: 2010-05-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars crappy

This is by far, the worst 5.7 I've ever had to do. The roof through the crack is crazy... there's no positive holds over the rounded roof, and the crack size was absolutely impossible for me to jam. I over protected the heck out of it, and finally topped out over it with strange combination of forearm and shoulder jam.

Then there's a long section of slab that's completely unprotected (no bolts). My second, who is also a woman with top end at 11, agrees that this is very sketchy, possibly because we have smaller hands. I think I might have actually whined on this climb (a serious no no in my book).

Not to mention the "walk off" is impossible to find and not really a walk at all (more like a downclimb). Wow... me, not happy. Will not be repeating this experience.

Added: 2009-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: dubdubuclimber on 2009-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good climb

awesome crack!

Added: 2009-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climballnight on 2007-02-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars A boulder problem on wheelz!

This turned out to be a fun route. We jumped on it when we found a line waiting for The Bong. Getting to the roof required a bit of a reach for me, and then getting under, out, and on top of the roof involved some interestingly contorted moves... word of advice?.. stretch first! The comments are correct, there is protection when you need it though, as long as you're flexible enough to get it where you want it. Ha ha ha...

One more note, my older Joshua Tree Falcon Guide illustrates this as being on the arette, but in fact this route is the crack and roof just to the right of the 2-bolted 5.10 arette. The newer books I believe have it shown correctly.

Added: 2007-02-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: peas on 2005-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Andrew lead it.

Witnessed by: Murray Thom, Andrew Berkley
Added: 2005-03-20

... Read all 6 ascent notes