A prominent crack to the left of Double Cross. It doglegs right about 2/3 of the way up and follows a diagonal overhanging dihedral to the top. One pin at the “crux” for bail out purposes (or you can aid it like a real man). Back it up if you lead off of it. Jam and friction to the top. Use this route to get to the base of Geronimo. Precarious start. Used to be 5.8, but now a 5.9 in the new guidebook.
Scramble (or lead) over the top to use the rap chains at base of Geronimo.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-01-30
Last Modified: 2008-01-17
Route ID: 12110
Confused why Miramonte calls this "sandbagged" and "awkward". I really good 5.8, but not sandbagged in my opinion. Easier than the Flake for example. The (intended) start is sort of a slab reach dyno thing if you are short, but well protected. The rest is secure jams. Better than Double Cross in my opinion...prob an overlooked route due to the guide book comments. Worth doing with Sexy Grandma, Double Cross and Orphan for a solid four routes in the sun.