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Routes : North America : United States : California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : Toe Jam

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Toe Jam - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 27
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (173)
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Rock (Trad)
1
Pro to 2.5", gear anchor
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.95/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 3.93/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Popular route facing the lot and behind a campsite. Go straight up crack that soon slants to the right along undercling flake to just above the big black spot. Take the vertical branch of crack that goes straight up, which will peter out near the top to make for the final namesake crux. If you have to use the bolted rap station to set up an anchor, MAKE SURE YOU SET A DIRECTIONAL IN THE HORIZONTAL CRACK DIRECTLY ABOVE TOPOUT (BEWARE OF DEATH BELAY)!!! Best not to use the rap bolts to belay, but instead set a gear anchor at topout spot and belay directly above the vertical petered out crack, then afterward walk over to the bolted rap station to rap down. This will free up the rap station for use by other parties to descend.

Descent Options:

Walk to climber's right to obvious bolted belay station and rap down.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2005-04-18
Last Modified: 2007-02-20
Views: 2055
Route ID: 6587

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173 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: williamkkelley on 2013-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Rope Solo

Easy route with the crux and the beginning in a mini corner and at the top out where it gets slabby. The climb traverses a lot for such a short climb so bring some runners.
Gear used:
Camalot 3, 2, 2, 1, 0.75, 0.5
Metolius Master Cam 3, 1
BD #8 Nut
Metolius #10 Astro Nut
Anchor:
Camalot # 4, 1, .4

Added: 2013-01-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jasile on 2012-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Route

One of the best things about JT, besides the variety of routes, has got to be the short approaches. What a great route right next to the camp ground.

Added: 2012-03-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Peterslug on 2011-12-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars A good start

A few good placements along the flake and then next to nothing at the top. Used a solid stuck nut as a redirect anchor.

Added: 2012-03-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nkane on 2012-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars TOEJAM

eat it for breakfast

Added: 2012-02-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: el_pirata on 2012-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars -

-

Added: 2012-01-05

... Read all 173 ascent notes