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Toe Jam - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 3.81/5 Average Rating : 3.81 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 27
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (175)
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Rock (Trad)
1
Pro to 2.5", gear anchor
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.95/5
  Rock Quality 4.27/5
  Scenery 3.92/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Popular route facing the lot and behind a campsite. Go straight up crack that soon slants to the right along undercling flake to just above the big black spot. Take the vertical branch of crack that goes straight up, which will peter out near the top to make for the final namesake crux. If you have to use the bolted rap station to set up an anchor, MAKE SURE YOU SET A DIRECTIONAL IN THE HORIZONTAL CRACK DIRECTLY ABOVE TOPOUT (BEWARE OF DEATH BELAY)!!! Best not to use the rap bolts to belay, but instead set a gear anchor at topout spot and belay directly above the vertical petered out crack, then afterward walk over to the bolted rap station to rap down. This will free up the rap station for use by other parties to descend.

Descent Options:

Walk to climber's right to obvious bolted belay station and rap down.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2005-04-18
Last Modified: 2007-02-20
Views: 2373
Route ID: 6587

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175 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gblauer on 2013-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My favorite 7 thus far

I loved this climb. Everything about it fit my style. It was a little technical and very very protectable. A great climb from right off the ground to the finish.

Added: 2013-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2013-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Toe Jam

sweet little route with a crux "toe Jam"

Added: 2013-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: williamkkelley on 2013-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Rope Solo

Easy route with the crux and the beginning in a mini corner and at the top out where it gets slabby. The climb traverses a lot for such a short climb so bring some runners.
Gear used:
Camalot 3, 2, 2, 1, 0.75, 0.5
Metolius Master Cam 3, 1
BD #8 Nut
Metolius #10 Astro Nut
Anchor:
Camalot # 4, 1, .4

Added: 2013-01-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jasile on 2012-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Route

One of the best things about JT, besides the variety of routes, has got to be the short approaches. What a great route right next to the camp ground.

Added: 2012-03-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Peterslug on 2011-12-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars A good start

A few good placements along the flake and then next to nothing at the top. Used a solid stuck nut as a redirect anchor.

Added: 2012-03-07

... Read all 175 ascent notes