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Squat Rockets - 5.4

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

same start as for bilbo, but where that goes straight up the bulge, go right to the ledge. The anchors got chopped, so to rap you have to go all the way to the top of the slabby part (5.6+ R). Beginner's beware. (12/31/2004)

Submitted by: wizard on 2005-01-30
Last Modified: 2007-02-21
Views: 880
Route ID: 63051

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: backdraftil on 2009-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Up to Down Climb

Down Climb on the right side

Added: 2009-10-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climballnight on 2007-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A few notes on getting down...via the top of We Dive at Dawn 5.8

Hi folks. We were up there last Saturday (12/8/07) and the rusty pin (the pin itself is looking more galvanized these days but there are rust markings on the rock around it, possibly just from the hanger) w/ old hanger and the other slightly more trustworthy bolt w/ hanger are still there...cleaned of any webbing or rings though. [crazy]

I generally climb places like Billboard with some extra webbing, quick-links and rings, but I hadn't this time (I planned to lead up and clean on the way down as I rapped to save time) so when I got to the top ill-equipped I had to change my plan.

The best plan these days, as others have mentioned, is probably to butt belay (backed up) your second up and then walk South/East and down climbing to the ledge with the stout 3 bolt (and 3 ring!) anchor to rap.

If you're a safety hound like me, my partner and I did this by belaying him while he walked over and then down climbed to the anchor, then having him tie in and belay me/spot me while I down climbed to the ledge. It is a pretty easy down climb though, but it was night time and a bit windy so we played it safe.

Hopefully this helps people with knowing what to expect when they get up top. Enjoy and be safe!

Oh, one more note, I don't remember for sure if this is >25 or >30m rappel, we tied two ropes together just to be safe.

- b


Added: 2007-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: apfander on 2004-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

none

Added: 2007-08-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: climballnight on 2005-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-12-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: eyecannon on 2005-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Someone chopped the rap anchor and didn't put a new one up.

Added: 2005-01-01