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Conniption - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
thin for the first part, mostly #1 and #2 for the upper part.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


climb the finger crack to the large cave/pod. pull through the bulge into the long handcrack. about as good a hand crack as you'll find in jtree.

Descent Options:

rap off the questionable static line around a boulder

Submitted by: snoopy138 on 2007-02-19
Last Modified: 2007-02-21
Views: 542
Route ID: 83654

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Conniption

I led all the Wonder Bluffs routes (7) in one day so they are fresh on my mind (best "set" of pure crack routes in all of Jtree). The 5.10's are out of this world good crack pitches for this grade range and plenty stout even by Jtree standards. The thin crack start is by far the crux. Great fingers give way to a chossy flaring crack. My suspicisins are that the 5.10a rating is to traverse left to the first cave to avoid the upper run out flaring gritty water runnel. The upper roof hand pull is awesome of course. From there, great hands up steep ground. My preference is to do the entire wall left to right in order. The lone rap station is above Negro Vortex.

Added: 2014-01-10

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: snoopy138 on 2007-02-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great climb done in poor style

will led most of the fingercrack, couldn't finish it. I finished the lead of the fingercrack up to the pod, put a couple pieces in the top of the cave and lowered off. will led through the bulge and up the handcrack. i cleanly seconded the thing. if you don't have great endurance the handcrack is extremely pumpy, especially after pulling through the bulge.

Added: 2007-02-19