Becoming one of my favorite 5.10a's in the park. Love the thoughtful sequence up to the roof. You can lay back this (when I guide it, it is what folks do on top rope). To lead it, keep yourself balanced and approach it as a stem problem Out right is is a small rail for your right foot. Great stuff. A reachy finger edge in the middle of the lower section is key when you run out of other options and finishes the crux.
Followed Doug. Crux was once again in the first 15ft for me. Awkward move getting into the right leaning finger crack. Then the fun begins. Good fingers for tiny hands that moves into hand crack roof with feet on the face. Really terrific climb.