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Dappled Mare - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.15/5 Average Rating : 4.15 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 17
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (67)
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Rock (Trad)
3
Pro to 2.5", 1 optional bolted belay anchor, gear anchors for the rest
380
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.64/5
  Rock Quality 4.48/5
  Scenery 4.09/5
  Fun Factor 4.30/5

Description:

Start up vertical blocky face (or via nearby ledges) to gain a short left-slanting crack. Follow that most of the way before switching to another that slants back right before topping out onto the big, wide ledge. This is the same belay ledge for The Swift and Bird On A Wire to the left. Step right to the start of a long vertical crack. You can set a belay here, or continue up the long, straight crack to the set of three belay bolts. The route then traverses down and left, then up and left into a left-facing corner crack that turns straight up before petering out, where the route runs first into the top portion of Bird On A Wire, and then joins up with The Swift another 40' up. Some might set another gear belay in this vicinity. If you do, be mindful of other parties emerging from those routes to the left. Then continue up a bit of low angled face and mostly cracks to top out via any of the easy crack finishes.

Note: It's possible to do the route in 2 long pitches with a 60 m rope from the bottom talus. Follow the route as described, but instead of belaying at the bolted semi-hanging belay, sling the pieces long and traverse down and left. Set belay at or near the low point of the traverse. Splitting the pitches here also minimizes rope drag through the zigzag. From there, the next leader can topout with a 60 m rope.

Descent Options:

Walk off to climber's right via the common gully descent.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-04-24
Last Modified: 2008-01-17
Views: 1721
Route ID: 6214

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67 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2014-03-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

none

Added: 2014-04-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexpete on 2013-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars With Mark Butler

We did this as a two pitch with a 60. Use smart rope management and you'll be fine. Good morning route, but very popular.

Added: 2013-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: sierragal93546 on 2012-01-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Second

Fun multiP. Start was challenging. Combined first two Ps.

Added: 2012-02-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2011-12-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Dappled Mare

Combined with Bird on a Wire for laps on the way before finishing off a short winter day back at Intersection Rock. Very warm south facing wall. First pitch (short solo) is 5th class if even. Second and third pitches are enjoyable climbing. Best way to finish is on Bird on a Wire, taking the right option at the very top. Makes for another decent pitch that way. With Joe K.

Added: 2011-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: cobbledik on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Last pitches only

Finished on DM from Bird on a Wire

Added: 2011-10-23

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