Routes : North America : United States : California : Joshua Tree National Park : Outback : Labor Dome : A Woman's Work Is Never Done
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A Woman's Work Is Never Done - 5.10c
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
1
Tips to 0.75", bolted rap anchor, or gear anchor 1"-4" if that is chopped
70
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Description:
Start up easy vertical crack to reach a right-slanting splitter that goes from thin-hands to fingers to tips to thinner-than-tips, before having to transfer onto face to topout. Nice exposure above the last small piece in the crack. More than one way to pull the crux. Located near middle of west face. Afternoon sun.Descent Options:
Rap, if the bolted anchor is there and not chopped. Or do the easy walkoff: go across top to clmiber's right to middle of west face, step through straight to the backside of formation, then circle clockwise and down to about halfway, all the way around
Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-12-02
Last Modified: 2008-03-23
Views: 288
Route ID: 9934
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11 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 11 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
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new
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Added: 2009-11-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Tricky - next time the redpoint shall be mine
I tried to stay in the crack all the way until the top, and fell a couple of times. The crack got so narrow I felt like I could only get about half of my fingertips in. Saw all the chalk to the left, but thought that was from people bailing off the 'proper way to do the route'. After flailing a bit though I figured maybe one is supposed to go left and do a final move on the face - and was surprised how easily that worked. In retrospect I probably stayed in the crack longer than most people - passed some spots that would offer decent footholds for making the transition from crack to face. I'm looking forward to having another try at it - and think I can get the redpoint now that I know better what to do. I would say this route its a solid 10c, with the crux being the transfer from crack to face - its a question of both how and where one does it. I'm particularly curious if anyone has done the crack all the way to the top, and if so, what would that be rated? perhaps hard 5.11?
Didn't see a rap anchor at the top - did some weenie chop it? or am I blind?
BTW, this route gets great winter afternoon sun!
Didn't see a rap anchor at the top - did some weenie chop it? or am I blind?
BTW, this route gets great winter afternoon sun!
Added: 2009-02-03
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Excellent!
Great crack. Be sure to bring a lot of micro cams, TCUs, C3's etc. The crack get's to be thinner than fingers and you have to shift climber's lift and use crimps on the face and a right side-pull on the crack.
Added: 2009-02-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
A Women's Work is Never Done
Great climb, worth the short hike.
Added: 2009-01-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Short
There are 10a's in the park that are harder. The crux section is really short which is way too bad, because it is fun. No way the grade is on par with something like Clean and Jerk.
Added: 2008-11-23
