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A Woman's Work Is Never Done - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.56/5 Average Rating : 3.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 40
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
1
Tips to 0.75", bolted rap anchor, or gear anchor 1"-4" if that is chopped
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.40/5
  Fun Factor 3.20/5

Description:

Start up easy vertical crack to reach a right-slanting splitter that goes from thin-hands to fingers to tips to thinner-than-tips, before having to transfer onto face to topout. Nice exposure above the last small piece in the crack. More than one way to pull the crux. Located near middle of west face. Afternoon sun.

Descent Options:

Rap, if the bolted anchor is there and not chopped. Or do the easy walkoff: go across top to clmiber's right to middle of west face, step through straight to the backside of formation, then circle clockwise and down to about halfway, all the way around

Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-12-02
Last Modified: 2008-03-23
Views: 931
Route ID: 9934

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-12-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

wahoo came back to lead it :]

Added: 2011-12-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: snoopy138 on 2010-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars adfa

dsFADF

Added: 2010-03-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2009-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2009-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-02-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tricky - next time the redpoint shall be mine

I tried to stay in the crack all the way until the top, and fell a couple of times. The crack got so narrow I felt like I could only get about half of my fingertips in. Saw all the chalk to the left, but thought that was from people bailing off the 'proper way to do the route'. After flailing a bit though I figured maybe one is supposed to go left and do a final move on the face - and was surprised how easily that worked. In retrospect I probably stayed in the crack longer than most people - passed some spots that would offer decent footholds for making the transition from crack to face. I'm looking forward to having another try at it - and think I can get the redpoint now that I know better what to do. I would say this route its a solid 10c, with the crux being the transfer from crack to face - its a question of both how and where one does it. I'm particularly curious if anyone has done the crack all the way to the top, and if so, what would that be rated? perhaps hard 5.11?

Didn't see a rap anchor at the top - did some weenie chop it? or am I blind?

BTW, this route gets great winter afternoon sun!


Added: 2009-02-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: boulder_rich on 2009-02-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent!

Great crack. Be sure to bring a lot of micro cams, TCUs, C3's etc. The crack get's to be thinner than fingers and you have to shift climber's lift and use crimps on the face and a right side-pull on the crack.

Added: 2009-02-02

... Read all 13 ascent notes