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The Decompensator of Lhasa - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.38/5 Average Rating : 3.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 52
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock (Trad)
1
gear, 4 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Left start off boulder and traverse right along horizontal to gain left-veering main crack. Right variation start begins to the right and follows a right-veering shallow corner up to a horizontal just past halfway point, then traverse left to get to the bolted face.

Descent Options:

Walk across top to climber's left to bolted rap anchor atop Grain Surgery.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2004-08-13
Last Modified: 2007-02-22
Views: 707
Route ID: 12655

10 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 10 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2012-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

Height dependent crux... for sure. At the second to last bolt, before the little ledge, I had to high-step a weak smear, hold onto 2 dimes, do a SUPER delicate press and deadpoint to the little ledge. I'm 5'7" w/ -2 ape, and my 6'0" partner who is plus 2 could reach the ledge from a stance lower. Still, fun! Felt as hard if not harder than the cruxes of Blackjack, Hobbit Roof and C.S. Special, Bearded Cabbage (once beta is figured...) and Oyster Delicacy. So, for short dudes and dudettes, I would say it is a bit harder :) probably my proudest JT onsight!

Added: 2012-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Decompensator

Also climbed Sidewinder today, one of the best times I've every had at Josh. Every move on this one is good! Think I remember a shallow .5 camalot in a horizontal somewhere on this. reachy, but probably not worthy of the (+) after 5.10...otherwise I couldn't have done it!

Added: 2011-03-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bandidopeco on 2010-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route

Tricky gear in the upper horizontal, then it's good to use longer slings on the last two bolts and remember gear for the anchor.

Added: 2010-03-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2009-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars wow

great route

Added: 2009-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: snowey on 2009-01-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars followed albert

followed albert up this. Great route with descent pro. Fell once at the second bolt.

Added: 2009-01-28

... Read all 10 ascent notes