Skip to Content

Coarse and Buggy - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 120
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (27)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
1
Thin wires and cams to #3 Camelot. Save the #3 and #2 for the anchor
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.25/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 3.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

One of the best climbs in Josh at this grade. Climbs the obvious razor-cut dihedral up the center of Dihedral Rock. Heady start (have a spotter) to killer stemming to an amazing, improbable finish that will have you either screaming or whipping. This climb will force you to trust your small pro. Not to be missed!

Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-01-02
Last Modified: 2007-03-19
Views: 1555
Route ID: 6304

Most Recent Photo

27 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 27 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2013-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Direct start

Direct start was very hard, dihedral was very hard, upper crux was hard. I found this to be very technical, not overy burly. Bring your finest footwork.

Added: 2013-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Jnclk on 2011-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars n/c

finest crack climb at the grade in the park?

Added: 2011-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lsandvos on 2011-02-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Keeps you on your toes!

Pretty sustained route, but a nice rest before the final crux section

Added: 2011-05-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2011-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Obvious Classic!

I remember driving into j-tree the first time 5 yrs ago and looking around saying "where's the good rock?" then we passed this corner and i was thinking this looked good. 5 yrs later and a bit of sampling of routes around the park and i get on this and its the best route ive done here. maybe im a sucker for corners and good quality climbs with amazing juggy finishes. this thing is sick. Ive climbed all over the country and this definately felt like an 11b like the guide book says. just sayin.

Added: 2011-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: snoopy138 on 2010-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fial

fial

Added: 2010-03-13

... Read all 27 ascent notes