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Coarse and Buggy - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 120
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
Rock (Trad)
1
Thin wires and cams to #3 Camelot. Save the #3 and #2 for the anchor
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.70/5
  Scenery 4.20/5
  Fun Factor 4.70/5

Description:

One of the best climbs in Josh at this grade. Climbs the obvious razor-cut dihedral up the center of Dihedral Rock. Heady start (have a spotter) to killer stemming to an amazing, improbable finish that will have you either screaming or whipping. This climb will force you to trust your small pro. Not to be missed!

Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-01-02
Last Modified: 2007-03-19
Views: 309
Route ID: 6304

Most Recent Photo

21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2009-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars pretty good

you can sew this up if you want. small nuts, blue aliens and smaller for the corner, and then bigger stuff to the top

Added: 2009-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cporter on 2009-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Coarse and Buggy

Sickness. Can easily protect with small stoppers.

Added: 2009-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: sammmy on 2009-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ...

TR solo. Amazing route

Added: 2009-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: baja_java on 2009-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

heady no-hands stemming protected by thin nuts and #2 Ballnut, then a wild pumpy top finish. aesthetic line. a great, great route

Added: 2009-04-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gschellens on 2009-01-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best climbs ever!

I have been eying this line for about 5 years and have always been a little intimidated by it so I never got on it... until now. Man what a great climb! probably one of my top 5 favorites in JTree. So good!!

Added: 2009-02-10

... Read all 21 ascent notes