Climb thin splitter crack up left side of big flake on the NE end of the rock until it peters out a third of the way up, and run out the friction slab to the bolted rap anchor. R-rated as falling on the slab above the crack would be very ugly.
Submitted by: trenchdigger on 2004-08-23
Last Modified: 2007-05-13
Route ID: 58424
Onsight before the rain hit, hail falling 3/4 of the way up. I set up a TR, My second attempted route until the rain hit. pulled the rope and left my anchor. I climbed it again the next morning to retrieve my gear. I did the slide for life about 10 feet below the chains. I recovered my composure and my gear.
Cool crack to start (wish it was longer). I didn't notice a slingable chicken head as noted previously, but I wasn't looking so hard. If you are not absolutely comfortable on 5.7, might not be the best thing to jump on & lead.
OK, so made it 3/4 of way up, then chickened out after slinging the chicken head, which didn't leave me enough space to stand on it...so, let down a rope off the rings, TR'd the rest. yeah, the runout would hurt, a lot if you slipped. The wind was rough, further throwing things