obvious thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground. the direct start is 11d-climb the face below the thin crack.
the more popular variation involves starting on the crack to the right and traversing over to the left on a horizontal crack.
Submitted by: artm on 2002-01-28
Last Modified: 2006-12-25
Route ID: 11271
Bad to the bone route. I did the traverse and just walked a #2 BD across... worked fine. I think you want to have some gear doing it. I did at least. My second worked out a fixed nut at the crux-- needed to be done, but he thought it was something I placed (sorry bro) so he had to take there, haha. Funny story. No way this is 10d, but it is a FINE route.
Came back for another try and got the redpoint today - am super happy. My idea of racking all my finger-sized stoppers on their own draws worked very well. In fact, after finishing the easy traverse part of the (indirect) start, I used only stoppers on the entire finger-crack. I also TRed the direct start - its hard and R.