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Firewater Chimney - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Sport)
1
bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

chimney

Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-12-28
Views: 528
Route ID: 82171

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Firewater Chimney

One of the few single pitch climbs deserving of a five star accommodation. My favorite route at Jtree to date and my favorite single chimney pitch anywhere. The run out between six bolts on 80' is the crux of the climb, otherwise not as overwhelming as you might think. The distance between the first and second bolts is the most worrisome with a potential deck. A spectacular chimney with a spectacular approach up Rattlesnake Canyon. After seeing the two full page photos in Miramonte's guide book, I was a bit surprised at how much conventional chimney technique worked just fine on this route. The bend in the walls is the crux move. Stay out vs in, in my opinion. I only stemmed a few times, mostly to change walls or clip bolts.

Added: 2012-02-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Firewater Chimney

One of my favorites in Josh! It's mostly wide and airy, with some tighter, more secure climbing at the top. There isn't a crux, just a whole lot of 5.8 and 5.9 stemming/chimneying, with a few good rests that you'll be grateful for.

The first 3 bolts have some distance between them. The first is about 20 feet up there, so don't slip. Getting to the second might put you back in "deck potential", but the last several feet of climbing is very easy and secure due to some large rails you can stand on. The 3rd bolt is in a weird spot and forces you to leave some good footholds and traverse out of your way to clip it. The top half of the climb feels better protected. Belay and then rappel from 2 bolts on the outside of the arrowhead.

Added: 2009-01-12