Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 590
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
R. Vogel, Vern Stiefel
Brass and a couple small stoppers, several small cams (blue and yellow TCU sizes), with set of cams up to 2 inches. Three protection bolts.
Begin at the base of the northeast face, on the left side of the central pillar. Pitch 1: Short pitch (50 feet) up hand sized cracks/corner to a large flat ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Move up and left and follow a seam/crack (tcu, small brass and stoppers) up past two bolst to the large flake (crux). Follow the flake then steep face to a third bolt. Traverse right to a small ledge; belay on the right end (100+ feet). Pitch 3: Easy finger crack until you can face climb up and left to the summit (5.7/8; 75 feet).
Make a 95 foot rappel off the backside. Head down and around the west side of the formation to return to your packs.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2008-12-19
Route ID: 82177
Vogel recommended this to me a few years ago, and I finally got on it. It was about a 2 1/2 hour hike out, after accidentally heading into the Valley of the Kings between Lemon and Lime domes (first time out there). The first and last pitch are trivial and the 2nd pitch is where all the quality and difficulty lay. Expect runouts, gear behind flakes the might blow, and don't fall. I would give this route an R rating, but there was a bolt right at the crux traverse into the upper flake. It was in deep shade while we were there. Reach definitely makes the route easier. I felt the route had a lot of similarities with parts of The Vampire.