Crack. Two start options direct (10d) or indirect (10b approach from high right by traversing R to L). Some crack climbing, but mainly face moves protected by somewhat tricky, flaring, dissappearing crack. Be careful of tricky/nonexistent gear before the bolt. Some route descriptions list 3 fixed pitons above the bolt. THEY ARE NOT THERE. 30' Runout (somewhat traversing) after bolt. Be careful on this one I know of at least 3 people (including me) who have taken nasty 35'+ falls on this route.
Submitted by: asuclimber on 2005-11-30
Last Modified: 2007-02-27
Route ID: 13839
Four of us had a nice day at BHMG - perfect weather and had the place to ourselves. Got clean on TR w/ the 10d direct start, and doing both finishes. This looks like it would be a scary lead with tricky pro. Go right at the top bulge to enjoy the finishing crack. Going left is doable, but harder and less cracky.
Climbed this on top-rope. Looked too sketchy to lead and sunlight was fading fast. As it was, I was rapping in a hurry. Took us over four hours to find this area. Walked out in the dark under moonlight. Good to do the hardest approach first.
Did the 10d start, felt accomplished getting to the top without falling. It's a strenuous route and it looked like it would take a lot of effort to protect it properly. The guy who led it took a fall high up but his pro held just fine.