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Book of Changes - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 40
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Crack. Two start options direct (10d) or indirect (10b approach from high right by traversing R to L). Some crack climbing, but mainly face moves protected by somewhat tricky, flaring, dissappearing crack. Be careful of tricky/nonexistent gear before the bolt. Some route descriptions list 3 fixed pitons above the bolt. THEY ARE NOT THERE. 30' Runout (somewhat traversing) after bolt. Be careful on this one I know of at least 3 people (including me) who have taken nasty 35'+ falls on this route.

Submitted by: asuclimber on 2005-11-30
Last Modified: 2007-02-27
Views: 580
Route ID: 13839

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A fun TR

Four of us had a nice day at BHMG - perfect weather and had the place to ourselves. Got clean on TR w/ the 10d direct start, and doing both finishes. This looks like it would be a scary lead with tricky pro. Go right at the top bulge to enjoy the finishing crack. Going left is doable, but harder and less cracky.

Added: 2010-04-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2008-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hairball even on TR

Climbed this on top-rope. Looked too sketchy to lead and sunlight was fading fast. As it was, I was rapping in a hurry. Took us over four hours to find this area. Walked out in the dark under moonlight. Good to do the hardest approach first.

Added: 2008-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: crackmeup on 2006-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good thing I top roped it

Did the 10d start, felt accomplished getting to the top without falling. It's a strenuous route and it looked like it would take a lot of effort to protect it properly. The guy who led it took a fall high up but his pro held just fine.

Added: 2007-05-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: vegastradguy on 2006-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

wouldn't even consider leading this thing- way too run-out with the crux coming before the bolt....

Witnessed by: joe
Added: 2006-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: poorboy on 2004-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-04-12

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