Skip to Content

Caught Inside on a Big Set - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.22/5 Average Rating : 4.22 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 60
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
2ea TCU's to #3 camalots
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Follow left trending finger cracks up, the step over right to a hand crack. Go up runout 5.6 watergrooves to belay in corner with #3 camalot and TCU's. Follow corner up 100 feet to top of formation.

Descent Options:

Walk-off left, then rap off tree, then shimmy down chimneys between boulders to rap above Book of Changes.

Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-01-20
Last Modified: 2007-02-27
Views: 635
Route ID: 13842

Most Recent Photo

16 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 16 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: johnnygothard on 2010-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Follow

Great climb.

Added: 2010-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: KVjay on 2009-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Big Horn Grotto

Best line in the grotto

Added: 2010-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice route

Linked both pitches with a 70m rope & conserved gear, saving my BD #3 & #4 and a #1 for the belay anchor at the very top. This route seemed alot easier than other 10bs I've led at JT - but maybe the type of climbing at the crux just suits me more. After belaying up my second, we walked to climber's left about 25 feet to a water groove and built a TR anchor for Morning Thunder in a horizontal crack. The descent: far to climber's left is a boulder with rap-slings underneath. One can then traverse far to climber's left, go around a big boulder and down-climb to the top of Dangling Woo Li / Book of Changes, and use those rap anchors.

Added: 2009-10-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2008-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Sweet

Really a 2 part climb. Not sure about Vogel's 5 stars... a 60m almost got me to the top. Protects fairly well. Save a #3 or #4 camalot for the top low angle 5.7ish fist section unless you want to run it out.

Added: 2008-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: metatarsal-over-muscle on 2007-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars asthetic moves

nice line, fluid moves, a must do!

Added: 2007-12-18

... Read all 16 ascent notes