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Morning Thunder - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 50
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Submitted by: tigerbythetail on 2004-08-13
Last Modified: 2007-02-27
Views: 472
Route ID: 13840

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars And some excellent thunder it was

Got back to BHMG today, and decided to try to lead Morning Thunder - bagged the redpoint. The pro is better than I thought it would be, but still a little tricky. Up until the first bulge the back of the chimney is thin, but in a few spots does take small nuts. I don't know why the guidebook says to bring pitons - whats up with that? I was able to protect the route well with a set of nuts, tricams and doubles up to BD #2. I'd recommend two #3s & two #2s for the anchor. One will also probably want to extend the anchor about 6' or so to reduce rope drag. Due to the length of the route - unless you have a rope much longer than a 70m (I have a 70m) - the leader will need to belay the follower from the top. The pro is there, but a bit tricky - probably its best to be comfortable leading 10s before leading this one. I didn't think any single move on the route was particularly difficult, but it is long and sustained, with multiple cruxes. The guidebook calls it 10d - it might be a bit easier by JT standards. I've done a number of 10ds at JT with harder moves than appear anywhere on this route. Good stemming/chimneying footwork skill is a major bonus here.

To descend, walk around to climber's left. You will find a sketchy white rap sling which you can use, or do a 15' sketchy downclimb - your choice. Then walk towards the top of "Book of Changes". You will see the next rap station, but not be able to (easily) get to it directly. Continue walking around in the climber's left direction, then manage a downclimb with a perfect short handcrack or faceholds to a ledge that leads back climber's right to the top of "Book of Changes". From here a 60m rap will just barely get one to the ground.

Added: 2010-04-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route - but looks hard to protect

After leading "Caught Inside on a Big Set", I built a TR anchor. Even a 70m rope will not reach to the start of the route with the belayer at the bottom (that is, the distance from bottom to top of the route is well over 35m). What we finally did was to have the belayer at the top, lower the climber, and them climb back up. I got this route clean on TR. The climbing wasn't too hard - but the protection would be very difficult I think. I read in the Vogel guidebook that this route is hard to protect - "angles" (pitons?) are recommended (!?!). So, I decided to TR first - glad I did.

Added: 2009-10-26