Be careful on this route! Near the top of the route is a right traverse underneath an overhang, and your rope will get stuck here!! It's probably not worth it! (el_capitan) Instead of traversing right near the top, can also go left and back to find a nice finger crack that leads to the top. Doing this will likely require breaking into two pitches to avoid rope drag.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2003-02-12
Last Modified: 2006-11-27
Route ID: 14129
My partner who belayed me on this lead had actually led this wrong on a previous trip. He told me to take the run out groove. No, keep traversing right to the crack (photo is correct in Miramontes book). Trick on this one is to double extend every piece you put in. Would have rather soled it myself, no slab moves at the grade really, always felt secure. Don't try and rap down from the rap up there in 2013, too much rock friction when you go to pull. Just down climb by the tree to the right of the formation. With Chad from CA.
Easy start, skip pro until the chimney. Tried facing left first, (good feet) but works better facing right since you exit that direction. I stopped after the traverse at the top and set an anchor for the 10a. Skipped the scary topout and just traversed left around the block to the ramp descent on the other side. Happy about that decision.