Up vertical face to a little ledge where the left-slanting thin crack starts, going past a bolt that replaced a fixed pin. Then straight up the face some more to the prominent high roof with a splitter crack. Set gear anchor, or leave a directional and step to climber's left to the bolted rap anchor atop Roller Coaster.
Scramble across top to climber's left and rap from top of Roller Coaster.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2004-08-13
Last Modified: 2008-04-07
Route ID: 5122
I fell lots of times on this route trying to get the crux move - which, by way was not the roof as I thought it would be from the ground. I finally did, after lots of flailing, get the layback-smear move, it seemed _much_ harder than other 10c's I led at JT. I agree the bolt seems a bit akwardly placed - it seems one has to clip it from the middle of he crux move. If it were a bit lower or to the right one could clip it before starting the crux, which would indeed be nice. When I finally got to the roof it looked difficult, but in the end I pulled it on my first try - so I suppose its easier than it looks. The coolness of that roof made up for all the flailing I had to do at the crux to get there.