The bottom squeeze chimney is protectable nowadays with a big cam. Can make do with just a 4" piece too, if comfortable stemming up to that placement and venturing above that for a bit. Or simply use your body as your pro that whole way. The top half goes from tips to thin hands to big hands, with juggy face holds and good feet where the crack widens beyond fist near the top. Many gear anchor options between fingers to 1", close to the edge or further back.
Walk across top to climber's left. Then either hop over to the top of adjacent pillar, or downclimb a little and step over, staying on-belay if need. Bolted rap station located on the farside of that pillar.
Submitted by: rockdiablo on 2002-09-13
Last Modified: 2008-03-30
Route ID: 12854