Routes : North America : United States : California : Joshua Tree National Park : Outback : Steve Canyon : The Decompensator of Lhasa
The Decompensator of Lhasa - 5.10d
Average Rating : 3.38 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 52
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock (Trad)
1
gear, 4 bolts
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Description:
Left start off boulder and traverse right along horizontal to gain left-veering main crack. Right variation start begins to the right and follows a right-veering shallow corner up to a horizontal just past halfway point, then traverse left to get to the bolted face.Descent Options:
Walk across top to climber's left to bolted rap anchor atop Grain Surgery.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2004-08-13
Last Modified: 2007-02-22
Views: 1023
Route ID: 12655
10 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 10 ascent notes
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2012-02-19
(View Climbing Log)
.
Height dependent crux... for sure. At the second to last bolt, before the little ledge, I had to high-step a weak smear, hold onto 2 dimes, do a SUPER delicate press and deadpoint to the little ledge. I'm 5'7" w/ -2 ape, and my 6'0" partner who is plus 2 could reach the ledge from a stance lower. Still, fun! Felt as hard if not harder than the cruxes of Blackjack, Hobbit Roof and C.S. Special, Bearded Cabbage (once beta is figured...) and Oyster Delicacy. So, for short dudes and dudettes, I would say it is a bit harder :) probably my proudest JT onsight!
Added: 2012-02-26
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-01-05
(View Climbing Log)
Decompensator
Also climbed Sidewinder today, one of the best times I've every had at Josh. Every move on this one is good! Think I remember a shallow .5 camalot in a horizontal somewhere on this. reachy, but probably not worthy of the (+) after 5.10...otherwise I couldn't have done it!
Added: 2011-03-01
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: bandidopeco on 2010-03-08
(View Climbing Log)
Good route
Tricky gear in the upper horizontal, then it's good to use longer slings on the last two bolts and remember gear for the anchor.
Added: 2010-03-10
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2009-10-19
(View Climbing Log)
wow
great route
Added: 2009-10-19
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by: snowey on 2009-01-24
(View Climbing Log)
followed albert
followed albert up this. Great route with descent pro. Fell once at the second bolt.
Added: 2009-01-28