Begin 15 feet right of tree. Boulder up and left to ledge. Up cracks to block (Crux), up left side of block to horizontal. Above, long pulls on horizontals (11) to top. Though very well protected, most top rope it (bring long extendo if you do)
Submitted by: fixedpin on 2004-03-21
Last Modified: 2007-02-22
Route ID: 14906
Top-roped a few times on previous weekends. Sent on second lead go of the day. Incredibly stoked to send this classic route! Gear beta - it's casual to lean over right from the hand-jam in the v-crack to place in the vertical seam (0.3 metolius), and the fall is clean.
Lead up this thing falling a few times and figuring out the gear. Felt really hard. Came back the second day still really intimidated but got it clean and smooth first try on that cold morning. Really helps to have a good plan for gear and moves. So fun and although its pretty chalked up, it wasn't too slippery. The 10c next to it is a perfect warm up. I see why this wall is all classic.
Tried to onsight this on lead, ripped out gear when falling. Got slaughtered. Came back a week later and toproped it clean. Don't have much desire to lead it again, but it is a really fun route. Sequency and burly.