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Sphincter Quits - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.78/5 Average Rating : 3.78 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (45)
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Rock (Trad)
1
Pro to 3", gear anchor
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.87/5
  Fun Factor 3.87/5

Description:

This is the left most route on the main west face of the rock. Up right-slanting hand crack onto a recess, then step right to vertical thin crack which you follow straight up to ledge. Step right and finish up two short dihedrals. Some feel "the crux is a bit unprotected with the possibility of a 10 feet 'whipper' on very good pro." Actually, you can sew the thin crack up.

Descent Options:

Walk to climber's right and downscramble the south end. One somewhat sketchy move, protectable with a cam on sling. Looks bad the first time, not seeing the good footholds, but straightforward after doing once.

Submitted by: fixedpin on 2004-03-21
Last Modified: 2007-02-22
Views: 1238
Route ID: 9710

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45 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: clr288 on 2014-01-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route!

This was a fun route. Not too difficult on TR.

Added: 2014-01-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: alexoverhere on 2012-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

followed this. was fun, but probably would have been intimidating to lead.

Added: 2012-12-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sphincter Quits

Good route, I enjoyed it immensly. Great to teach/learn fingers on. The 5.10 to the right, not so much, sparse quality pro on that one.

Added: 2012-01-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: enigma on 2006-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sphincter Quits

Enjoyed

Added: 2011-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: ianmeister89 on 2011-02-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sphincter quits

fun.

Added: 2011-02-22

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