Right On - 5.5

This route was rated back when 5.9 was the highest rating, so be careful before getting on this thing. In today's standard, this would be at least a 5.8, if not 5.9 (depending on whether you play by Sierras grading or So Cal rating).

Easy route finding as it follows the crack straight up. A few run out sections make this potentially dicey for new leads. Not recommended as first multi-pitch despite its deceivingly low grade.

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I have been climbing Right On for over 25 years. I used to switch cracks into Pitch 2 sometimes on Orange Flake. My first time up Right On was in 1977 and no bolts were installed on any pitch ! My last climb up this face was in 1992 which was my 29 ascent on this route and every pitch except pitch 4 had bolts. I installed a rap station near the top of Right On in the late 70's. Not the traditional rap station installed by John Wolf on top of Right On.You down climb down a long slab from the top to the rap bolts and rap 140 feet down the smooth face, avoiding hiking down the gully; you must bring two ropes. I have in the past climb this entire route under one hour. On pitch 3, stay on the left side of the face and avoid the main crack system but stay near the main crack but not in it until you are near the top of P3. Do not go to far left near the top of P3. Than, you can climb this pitch real easy rather than being in the main crack system which is awkward and strenuous. Switching cracks sometimes into Orange Flake makes this route fun. Take a set of "tri Cams" they work well on this route.

My partner and I were going to knock off this one as an easy way to fill a "rest day". As Gunks climbers, we're not used to off-width cracks and flaring chimneys, and found pitches 2 and 3 awkward, strenuous and unpleasant. My partner found some decent nut placements on P1, but the top of P3 was too run out for his taste. Then he got off route at the top of P3 - it looked better to him going to the left, but that's a different climb! As I seconded up, I realized he went the wrong way. He was belaying me from the climb on the left, and that left me to have to correct his mistake and traverse unprotected (as the 2nd) way to the right and past a tricky and thin move around the corner (felt at least 5.9) to get back into the proper gully, then belay him into the gulley to get on route. Well, at least the last pitch was straightforward.

I wouldn't do this one again, and if you're not used to these techniques, it will feel harder than 5.5. But it's a pretty view from the summit and the descent was straightforward. We had one 60m rope, we did a very short rap down to the other set of anchors, then rapped down from there. A long but easy downclimb took us back to our packs.