Climb first 2 pitches of Cannibal Gully (or link as one long pitch) and belay in the corner on the left side of the gully. Climb the obvious dihedral to roof to Lizard Ledge. Finish on any of the options off Lizard Ledge.
Submitted by: wyoclimber3 on 2009-06-03
Route ID: 8923
We did in two pitches and wrapped off Lizard Ledge. Climbed up the Gully to the start of the dihedral and built an anchor there. I think there are chains to the left, below a 5.12 crack (many people get on the 12 crack thinking it is Bourbon Street). As opposed to another review, I thought the 2nd pitch was classic. It was just some great climbing. The top out is interesting and might get you to sweat a little bit if you have already used all of your BD .5s and .75s.
Rack: Took doubles from 0.4 to #2 Camalot and one #3 Camalot. I felt pretty good with that, and I like to place every 10 feet or so.
Climb: P1: ~90ft. We started up the left side of the gully which is rated 5.7...call it old school 5.7. About 80 feet up the climb forces you to traverse right to the right side of the gully where there is a bolted chain anchor. I chose to belay here because I was worried I would get drag if I kept going.
P2: ~50ft. Follow splitter thin hands to hands crack in the corner up to the headwall. Set up anchor with small and medium gear in the corner. (We traversed over to the to the left 10 feet where there is a chain anchor and belayed from there because we were confused, more on that later).
P3: ~110ft. Bourbon Street, the crux pitch goes up the crack in the corner. Bring doubles of small and medium gear for this pitch if you like to set gear fairly often. Takes small and medium in the lower part of the crack and it will take 1 inch and 2 inches about halfway up it. I did a few chimney about halfway up. Above the chimney moves you will notice the crack starts to peter out. Get a good .5 before the crack ends because that is the last you will get. I think the crux is right at the end of the pitch about 5 feet or so about the last piece you can get.
P4: ~130ft. 5.6 Crack.
Note: I think the topo showing Bourbon Street in the Falcon Guide is a little confusing. To me it looks like there are three crack on a headwall rather than one crack on a headwall and one in a corner. Bourbon Street is the climb in the right corner. I emphasize this because there is a right leaning slightly overhung crack in the middle of the headwall that I mistook for Bourbon Street. That crack is 5.12 and I caught some air on it. There is a chain anchor just to the left of the 5.12 crack. We belayed from there because we thought the .12 was the .10. The chain anchor works fine as a belay for Bourbon Street, you just have to traverse 10 feet to get to Bourbon Street. Hope this beta helps another fool avoid leaving a piece in the .12. When that .12 turned into overhanging fist jams I knew I was in trouble.
This is one of the best pitches on Black Wall. Climb up the first long pitch to the corner (use a 60 meter rope). Then take the finger crack that merges in to the corner. Many lie back moves and one balancy mantel move at the end of the pitch will take you to lizzard ledge.
I've always thought of bourbon street as slightly dirty, which it is. Still an OK route, but nothing to write home about. Bring some TCUs and mid sized nuts for sure. the "fist 2 pitches" are actually just pitches from cannibal gulley and 2nd pitch of rat's tooth, respectively.