Wholesome crack climbing with fun leaning crack finish. Highly recommended. (Note: Low Anchors Have Been Removed... Bring a Large Piece 4" or 4.5" to get through the wide stuff to upper Anchors and 70 meter Rope!!!) Second 5.9 pitch rarely done.
Submitted by: wyoclimber3 on 2009-06-15
Route ID: 55692
Really nice route. The diagonal finger crack is spectacular and protects very well. Upper pitch only needed one Blue (BD #3). Climbing the upper portion as a layback instead of inside the crack seemed the best approach as my knee got a little stuck on lead.
The extended anchor definitely does not detract from the route. The extra climbing is fun and the old anchor placement would feel like it ended in the middle of the route. A #4 might be nice for the finish. 70m definitely useful.
as long as you dont redirect for the traverse, but if you lower off/rap and clean, you can get to the ground with a 60. if you're TR'ing, either set up a 6' extension on the anchor or bring a 70m line.