near onsight. to the last move. The last bit isn't hard--maybe 10 D. It is sloping, and my wasted forearms didn't have it. Lower crux mid hard 11. For me the hardest section was the bomber fingers. Above that no hands body tension rest. last bit thing fingers and holds--mid 11 to the sloping 10 finish. A way better route than it appears.
Took 5 solid tries and waiting through a long winter to send this. Sent it after one refresher run this season and mighty happy. Fell every time i lead it at the same spot... right before getting that left foot up at the end. Always long airy falls and one pulled cam (my fault) to a real long one. Just plain fun which I think kept me from finishing it. Beautiful pitch... maybe the best!
If you skipped the direct start by traversing into the crack, you cheated. I felt the crux was going through the chimney between foot ledges. After the chimney all the way to the traverse form the crack out left I felt the fingers were so bomber there's no way I could have fallen out. The last few moves which everyone feels is the crux wasn't that hard for me. The match out left was a bit sloapy but good. That left foot makes all the difference, use it then throw for the top. Classic .11c.... Proud onsight for me.