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Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : Campground Boulders : The loaf, east face offwidth squeeze.

The loaf, east face offwidth squeeze. - V6

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Bouldering
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d V5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 1.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

The obvious squeeze roof problem over a bad landing. Start low and chimmney you way up into a rapidly narrowing squeeze chimmney. Get a good heel toe then reach up high for a fist jam. Bring those feet way up and reach your left hand out for the arete. Release the fist and grab the sloaper, pull up, place a knee on the face and reach for the horizontal crack. Now mantel to the top. Much much harder than it sounds. Not recomended with shorts and a tee shirt. Good luck...

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2005-09-06
Views: 846
Route ID: 69464

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4 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lightrack on 2009-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good Stuff!

i stacked the crux

Added: 2009-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty V4
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: radioface on 2009-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars neato

Climbed this summbitch left side in. Why would you climb around the crack? V6? Goodness gracious!

Added: 2009-05-17

Ratings
  Difficulty V6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: drunkenmaster on 2008-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars offwidth

V6 offwidth! - my hands climbed the arete/face features my feet jammed the crack. any other way would be uncivilized.

Added: 2008-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty V5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2005-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Offwidth

You can climb around this offwidth by launching off the slab to the left of the crack, liebacking through the offwidth and strait through to the easy stuff making it much easier, but that's not the point. To claim a ture accent, you have to sit start in the chimney and grovel your way up and out of it. Any other way would be, not climbing the Offwidth.

Drunkenmasters variation is worth a go too. Burly lieback over a chopping block... good stuff.

Added: 2005-09-06