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The Hourglass - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Warren Harding, Dick Long, Jack Rankin (1965) F.F.A. Greg Dexter, Rick Sumner (1975)
Rock (Trad)
Cams .3" to 3" Nuts 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Climbs the right side of a crack system that forms an hourglass shape on the central wall. The origonal first pitch climbs a dirty left facing 5.7 corner system about 300ft left of Tombstone Ledge. This pitch features mossy bush choked cracks and loose flakes with hidden pro to the main ledge. Easy to overlook by the would be accentionest. The main crack system starts up dikes with a faint crack which eventually leads to the a more prominant crack and ends at a sling belay at the center of the hourglass. This pitch has moderate climbing with decent pro but is a little dirty. The second pitch starts out immediately on steep ground and pulls a small overhang to a roof. Strenuous moves (.10) lead to a wildly overhanging jam crack with great pro into a more moderate crack system. A bolt is passed just before climbing into another roof (.10+) with exposed libacking moves which lead to easy dikes and good gear to a three bolt belay. The next pitch climbs a series of powerfull lieback moves (with great gear and a bolt) to a ledge system where you move out right and climb easy terrain to the summit.

Descent Options:

Walk off.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-10-19
Views: 987
Route ID: 96556

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Wild

The first pitch (from tombstone ledge) sucks ass. Don't bother. Start from the main ledge system.

A really full on Lovers Leap classic. Wild and exposed adventure climbing the whole way. Mostly solid rock and pretty clean considering it hardly ever sees climbers. This route has been retrobolted to the max. It's totally safe for a solid .10+ climber to go at. The crux roof sports a bolt which protects the lieback moves really well though it's not really needed. The bolt before the second roof on the second pitch is totally not needed as bomber gear can be found the entire way.

Really reccomend this route as a must do for Lovers Leap.

Crux roof is pretty buryl and preplexing to get into, but then lends its self to cool positive lieback moves.

Added: 2008-10-19