Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : East Wall : A Few Dollars More.
A Few Dollars More. - 5.10a
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John Bowlin, John Hoffman, Victor Marcus, Jim Orey (1977)
Rock (Trad)
X
3
Cams to 3" emphisis on small to medium.
Nuts 1 set RP's and 1 set regular.
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Description:
Start up a short series of dikes and flakes about 50ft right of Labor of Love. Continue up huge dikes and zero pro heading toward a 3" left facing crack. A 5.8X (60+ft above last pro) move is made just before reaching the flake. A two bolt anchor awaits on top the flake on a nice ledge. The second pitch climbs rounded dikes to a pin and marginal pro (5.8) then makes a 40ft run to a crack system where gear can be found. Belay in the crack system where several cams from .5" to 1.5" can be found. The third pitch climbs up to a fixed pin (5.10) with decent pro and traverses right under the large roof system to the trees of Psychedelic Tree and to the top. A "contraversial" direct finish was climbed by Edwin Drummond strait up from the second pitch zig zaging through the roof system reported to be 5.11.Descent Options:
Walk off.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-10-19
Views: 117
Route ID: 96557
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | X |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Why me?
The first pitch though mostly juggy dikes had one short mantle move with some sloaping hand holds. Though easy, it was a long way above the last pro and a fall would result in certain death. The second pitch was a short section of 5.8ish moves to a small ledge with a pin and a decent piece of gear. A decent runout on some good and some sloaping holds (5.8) was done before reaching a thin crack system (took small offset nuts at first) that featured better and better gear as you went. We tried the direct finish over the roof system but found the gear to be quite sketch. We opted for the traverse right under the roofs following the origional route.
Added: 2008-10-19
