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Easier Said than Done - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Richard Harrison, Jay Smith (1981)
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Three bolts, Cams few from .3" - 1" Nuts, 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Just to the right of East Wall is a series of bolts that seem to aimlessly wander and traverse up East Wall. Climb up the first three bolts on thin balancy and a few powerful moves. The bolts are well placed and the climbing up to this point is relatively safe. At the third bolt (and side by side pitons) traverse out right along a thin dike on thin edges for both hands and feet. After about 8ft of cruxy .10d moves the climbing eases considerably where you gain entry onto a right facing ramp. Head up the ramp easy ramp where you are now considerably runnout. No worries, gear is just ahead. Climb up to a blank headwall and again traverse out right on easy terrain and finish up the on End of the Line to the bolted anchors.

Descent Options:

Rappel or continue up Beginning of the End (5.12?)

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-08-11
Last Modified: 2011-08-12
Views: 317
Route ID: 109613

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2011-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Alright

Not crazy hard but there are definitely hard 10 moves just right of the third bolt that would result in a funky fall. The remaining part of the route isn't death but you better be comfortable with runouts. I placed a yellow C3 (Yellow Alien) just before clipping the first squeezed bolt of "End Of The Line".

Added: 2011-08-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2011-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Definately easier said than done.

This route looks like death. When you climb it you're on your toes the whole time expecting it to get grim at any moment. It's bold but not over the top. There are big runnouts but on much easier terrain (think 5.7) and the whole thing actually turns out to be fairly well protected. The traverse is a bit spicy though, but a fall probably wouldn't result in much more than a bitch scream.

Added: 2011-08-11