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Pigs On the Wing - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Jay Smith Rick Sumner (1977)
Rock (Trad)
X
3
Cams .4"-2" Nuts 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Starts up the face just to the left of the first pitch of East Wall. The first pitch is a retro bolt of the original route sporting reasonably spaced (new) bolts and a two bolt anchor for lowering off. The first pitch is rated 5.10b/c PG13(ish). Most party's stop at the anchors or continue up the East Wall route. If doing all three pitches, continue up to the East Wall ledge and belay there. The second pitch winds more or less strait up following dikes and the occasional gear placement. Make your anchor short of the top under a series of small roofs where gear permits. A short pitch leads to the top.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-07-02
Views: 216
Route ID: 86864

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: highandwild on 2009-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First Ascent

I have just been told that this route has been retro-bolted. Well that's just swell. Thanks for asking. Gee, you must be climbing well these days, since we climbed it on sight (of course) and in EB's. Just think, we didn't even have cams yet. You guys are really pushing the limits this time. Now we have another so-so route. Why not bolt Fantasia while your at it or maybe just get a 300' TR going.

Might have to make a trip out to Tahoe. Heard several of my routes at the leap got retro-bolted . Jay Smith




Added: 2009-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crunchy munchy

A little crispy due to lack of traffic but not too bad. This is either a total retro of the origional Pigs on the Wing which had no fixed pro, or a really close squeeze job. We'll have to see if the bolts last, but either way it's a good route. The next few pitches wander somewhere up the face. Who knows where the origional route goes as there are many ways one could go, but I believe it is more or less... up!

I still have yet to lead the two upper pitches but I'd be up for it at the drop of a hat.

Retrobolting = Lame.

Added: 2007-07-02