Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Direct
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Psychedelic Direct - 5.10a
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Mike Creel, Chris Craig (1990)
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Cams .5"-3" Nuts 1 set. 4 slings.
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Description:
Starts just to the left of Psychedelic Tree up a ramp/corner then climbs the face to a bolt. Traverse up and left to a right facing flake (good gear) and eventually another bolt on the left. A reachy traverse right leads to another bolt and more face climbing past one more bolt to the anchors. It is hard to see the bolts on this route when looking up from below as they are usually behind a dike. Don't worry, keep climbing and they will appear just when you're right on top of them.Descent Options:
Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes or continue up easy dikes to the second pitch of Psychedelic Tree and finish on that route.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-09-09
Views: 38
Route ID: 101627
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great route
Old leeper hangers protect the route but will hopefully be replaced soon. The bolts are hard to spot from below until you're almost on top of em. Most of the route felt 5.8ish with one reachy 5.9+ move. It looked like you could avoid the reachy move and climb down and around it. Weird white granite on this route in places. Really cool steep route, not much more sketchy than Labor of Love. Don't know why it doesn't get done more often, perhaps because of the leepers?
The anchor can be backed up if desired by placing small cams behind flakes to the left and above the bolts.
Edit: All bolts replaced by the ASCA on 9/13/09 with 1/2in x 2 3/4in stainless bolts includeing double ring rap hangers on the anchor.
The anchor can be backed up if desired by placing small cams behind flakes to the left and above the bolts.
Edit: All bolts replaced by the ASCA on 9/13/09 with 1/2in x 2 3/4in stainless bolts includeing double ring rap hangers on the anchor.
Added: 2009-09-09
