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Psychedelic Direct - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Mike Creel, Chris Craig (1990)
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Cams .5"-3" Nuts 1 set. 4 slings.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Starts just to the left of Psychedelic Tree up a ramp/corner then climbs the face to a bolt. Traverse up and left to a right facing flake (good gear) and eventually another bolt on the left. A reachy traverse right leads to another bolt and more face climbing past one more bolt to the anchors. It is hard to see the bolts on this route when looking up from below as they are usually behind a dike. Don't worry, keep climbing and they will appear just when you're right on top of them.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes or continue up easy dikes to the second pitch of Psychedelic Tree and finish on that route.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-09-09
Views: 479
Route ID: 101627

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2009-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

Old leeper hangers protect the route but will hopefully be replaced soon. The bolts are hard to spot from below until you're almost on top of em. Most of the route felt 5.8ish with one reachy 5.9+ move. It looked like you could avoid the reachy move and climb down and around it. Weird white granite on this route in places. Really cool steep route, not much more sketchy than Labor of Love. Don't know why it doesn't get done more often, perhaps because of the leepers?
The anchor can be backed up if desired by placing small cams behind flakes to the left and above the bolts.

Edit: All bolts replaced by the ASCA on 9/13/09 with 1/2in x 2 3/4in stainless bolts includeing double ring rap hangers on the anchor.

Added: 2009-09-09