Climb up the blank slab just right of Deception Direct. The few bolts on the pitch mark the way. At the 4th bolt traverse right under a small roof with good holds to a belay spot behind big flakes. The second pitch climbs past two bolts and traverses off right into the big roofs above.
There is no decent. Commit or epic. You can bail off onto Deception at (ALMOST) any time if you chicken out.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-07-24
Route ID: 109444
The first pitch is sustained and very runnout. There are good 40+ft runnouts and a fall at the wrong time could be desasterous. It is possible to bail out left onto Deception if needed. The protection is grim and thin in most spots. A few pitons would make things much more tolerable. There are pin scars along the route. If I were to climb this again I would suggest bringing a small handfull of pins. Two long thin Knife Blades, one short thin KB and two thin to medium Lost Arrows. The climbing on this thing is pretty sustained and every bit of .10d. Worth doing though if you're up to it as it's some of the best slab climbing anywere near tahoe.