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It's Better With Bacon - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
Rock
Quickdraws plus gear to 2". Include RPs, micro cams, and ball nuts if doing first pitch.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.18/5
  Rock Quality 3.91/5
  Scenery 4.18/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Four pitches up face and cracks to the north of the Hogwild area. P1: Climb slab, using thin cracks for pro. Can optionally skip the first pitch by climbing fourth class to the right. P2: Climb short face past two bolts to nice ledge. P3: Head up cracks to thin face protected by bolts. Clip a bolt and pull a small roof on small dikes. Belay at stance. P4: Mantel up thin dikes (crux) and then make a bee line to the crack system to the left. Continue up this, pulling or skirting small roofs along the way, to a belay stance. P5: Optional dirty and circuitous pitch to the top. Most parties forgo this pitch and rap the route from the P4 anchor. All anchors have rap rings and can be reached with one 60m rope.

Submitted by: thedus on 2006-06-19
Views: 451
Route ID: 69275

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21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trevzilla on 2009-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars It's Better With Bacon

Wow, this climb is a little longer than it looks from the ground. :) We combined pitches 1 & 2 with a 60 meter rope, and a lot of rope drag. We did pitch three and half of pitch 4 with our 60 meter. (It wouldn't quite reach to the 4th anchors, so I set up a belay in the middle) Then we topped out in a third pitch, and in the dark. I really enjoyed the climb but the bolts may be a little runout to those that are not confident at this grade. The crux is just above the third anchors and is protected with a bolt at your hip during the move. So it's pretty nice.

Added: 2009-09-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cool First Pitch!

Climbed it in a group of three, including a 5 year old girl who literally RAN up the first three pitches without so much of a pause on either pitch. Amazing!



Added: 2009-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jager824 on 2009-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Honeymooners

1st P is the money. Good climb.

Added: 2009-06-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: orangekyak on 2008-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Interesting climb

P1 had some thoughtful climbing over marginal gear. Jen led p2, Greg led p3. p4 was a little interesting, too. Rapped from p4 anchor.

Added: 2008-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
Flash Flash ascent by: Gmburns2000 on 2008-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Better with Bacon

Led P3. P1 seemed a bit spicy, but not that stiff. The 5.8 pitch is a one-move wonder that is just OK.

Added: 2008-06-15

... Read all 21 ascent notes