Facing the middle of Hogsback, you'll see a lone tall pine tree up some class 3/4. Just to the west is a good plateau for belaying. The route starts on a left facing dihedral. You can go up 100' to a 8"x2.5' ledge. You can use nuts to set up an anchor here. There's an old piton that is 8' above the ledge. You can make the top from here. Or you can go set up another belay station 100' up on a sloping triangular ledge. The top is only 25' from here. The final moves involve jamming up a crack in a large block. You can also traverse a couple of feet the right and mantle up the block using dikes for good hands. And there's a totally random knob for your left foot. The move reminds me of the gym....
davidji's edit-- In the Supertopo they call the route you described "Harvey's Wallbanger Center, 5.6". Carville's guide shows it as Pip's Pillar, and shows HWC as being immediately to the left. Supertopo calls this one mostly 5.4 with some 5.6 sections (lieback & fingers), which makes more sense to me, because the optional 5.7 top out move was the hardest move on the climb.
Submitted by: davidji on 2004-06-03
Route ID: 17719