Far off on the left side of the Lower Buttress just past Beer Can Alley. A high first (and 2nd) bolt keeps most people off this route, but for no good reason. Any moves harder than 5.9 are just after the bolts leaving the sections in between (where one wouldn't want to fall) no harder than 5.8 and on good holds. The route has a few reachy crux sections that are height dependent. These reachy sections can sometimes be avoided by moving out right or left and going around them. Anyone taller than 5' 8" will feel this route to be significantly easier than the given grade. Three shunts make up the anchor.
Lower with a 60m rope.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-07-20
Route ID: 94883
nice route. the bolts are placed right where you want them. it is a ways to the first and second bolts, but don't think it's harder than 5.8 and the longer runs up higher are about the same. I thought it was 10d/11a but I'm pretty conservative.
Like climbing an easier less sustained version of Powerlust. The distance between some of the bolts should not be a deturent as the climbing and holds between are much easier. I didn't find the climbing to be particularly sustained as the SuperTopo states. However, some of the moves were a bit technical and took a bit of thought to figure out. Overall a great route, one that should be put on everyones list. Way better than Powerlust IMO.