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For Real Crack - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.25/5 Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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pro to 3", lots of nuts needed.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Pitch 1: This route begins in Crud gully and follows several cracks and chimneys Pitch 2: Move up and left to another gully to reach the top.

Submitted by: badphish on 2003-06-29
Views: 874
Route ID: 37382

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2009-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars best route ever

i don't understand why people don't like this climb, its clean enough where you need it, and where it isn't, you can just easily rub the moss away to place a cam in just a few seconds. I think people are getting lazy with all these pre-cleaned routes.

DO NOT start in crud gully like it is advertised, that is where it is dirty, wet, not fun, etc... We started to the far left (NOT in crud gully) on the face right next to the Jail Break variation of Surrealistic to the first flaring crack (clean 5.8 face climbing 15' left of crud gully). Once you are level with the small bush, traverse 5' to your right, and begin the fun :]

you can stay inside the chimney/offwidth the whole time and avoid grabbing the abundant face holds to add some spice to the climb. i personally recommend this, likewise, you could also just face climb outside of the chimney and reach in to place pro, but then you're not getting the full uniqueness of the route.

There's good pro in the wide section and you don't NEED anything bigger than two #4's, but it was nice having a #5, and would have been easy with a #6, just depends how much you want to climb above your piece on the second pitch were it narrows.

at the end of the chimney you emerge onto a face ladened with hundreds of sporadic cracks and flakes, just be careful where you pull and you'll be fine. When the cracks become useless is when you traverse a few feet left and climb up the 5.7 arete.
Can be done in two pitches.

Added: 2009-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: DJCervant on 2008-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Blah

Bushy, dirty, no worth another climb

Added: 2008-08-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2007-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Wierd

Should be called for-shit crack, not enough fun to ever touch again.

Added: 2008-02-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2006-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Wierd little thing

Kind of a fun route. Good gear, no big stuff needed but still physical for a 5.7 chimney. Under appreciated for sure.

Added: 2006-09-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: caughtinside on 2006-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I'd never seen anyone on this route, despite it's moderate grade and obvious line. It was pretty fun, you never really go inside the big crack. Adventurous!

Added: 2006-07-15