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Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct Finish

Surrealistic Pillar Direct Finish - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.75/5 Average Rating : 2.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

Climb the first pitch of Surrealistic Pillar. On the second pitch, instead of traversing left after 20' of climbing, continue up the wide crack above to a gully leading to the top. Not suggested unless you know for sure no one is below you. Not a real great finish to a classic climb.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2005-10-14
Views: 1060
Route ID: 63859

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cobbledik on 2010-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars .

dirty up top with wonderful hollow flakes to pull on.

Added: 2010-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: multiades on 2009-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Surrealistic Pillar Direct Finish

The original looks so much better. Unfortunately we missed the traverse and ended up on this chosspile. Loose and runout on easy terrain. Fortunately, the beginning (and G/PG) pitches are still classic. Now we know what to do next time.

Added: 2009-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tradrenn on 2009-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent route.

The wide part was the most fun, didn't have #5 with me so I just run it out. I thought this was the 5.7 route, I guess that's what I get for climbing without the guide book.

Added: 2009-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2008-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Better than it sounds.

There weren't too many loose rocks on this variation, only a few small ones and a big tv size one, just be carefull moving around it and the route's fine.

the wide crack is totally worth doing the whole way up!
I just took a #5 and slid it up the whole way placing the occasional nut....

We then belayed on the nice ledge right before the top...
VERY NICE ROUTE!

4/14/08 there was only one small wet spot right before the ledge but no big deal...

Added: 2008-04-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: sonso45 on 2005-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I ran it out from the chains on the first pitch and went 200' straight up. I should have stopped @ 40' lower and belayed from a comfy ledge instead. This seemed like the natural way.

Added: 2005-08-26

... Read all 6 ascent notes