Skip to Content

< Previous | Next >

Surrealistic pillar - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.26/5 Average Rating : 4.26 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (55)
Rock
PG13
2
nuts/cams 1/2" to #3 camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.12/5
  Rock Quality 4.44/5
  Scenery 4.38/5
  Fun Factor 4.31/5

Description:

Start to the right of the steeper direct start, around a corner a few feet. Keep moveing up and left until you reach the nice vertical hand crack. Belay just under the obvious wide crack. Climb mostly on the face avoiding the O.W. crack where possible past a fixed pin. When the crack changes direction and starts to head right, traverse on large dikes around the arete and up moderate face climbing. Belay in the crack or just barely run it to the top on a 60m rope (Literally 0 feet to spare) Nice route.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2005-10-14
Views: 631
Route ID: 8738

Most Recent Photos

55 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 55 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trevzilla on 2009-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Surrealistic Pillar

Very fun climb. My first at the Leap.

Added: 2009-09-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bomber

We lead up to the set of bolts to do some top roping. I followed this route and found it exposed but with relatively solid bomber holds most of the way and the protection looked pretty positive until just before the bolts where you have to traverse over a bit to the left. We found the right most bolt a little sketchy - so we backed up our TR in the crack up to the right of the bolts. Bolts provide access to two or three great TRs - and from the bolts there's a sketchy traverse to another set of bolts to the left enabling a TR of a 12a with an absolutely exceptional 11d bouldering start.

Added: 2009-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: phewes on 2009-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally got on this one

I've gone to other routes 3 times due to the line up on this one. It was good to link this with Corrugation Corner, but something better done on a week day when the numbers of people at the crag are down.

Added: 2009-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Haystacker on 2009-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

enjoyed it even though i got lost on the 2nd pitch, but it turned out well but run out

Added: 2009-08-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mrsuicide on 2009-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars pretty meh

wandery and not all that enjoyable.

Added: 2009-07-23

... Read all 55 ascent notes