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Eeyors Enigma - 5.10a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
PG13
4
Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3#4's...set of nuts. A double sling usefull for the squeeze.
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Eeyors Enigma is the large offwidth to the left and around the corner from Travelers Buttress and to the right of Eeyor's Extacy. Its name gives good indication of what to expect. The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge. The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong bong then out left under a short roof (crux) using fist jams and decent feet in the offwidth crack and slideing a #3 along. Back clean your gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack if you don't. Now follow a chimmney while arm baring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimmney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimmney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a small alcove. Save a #4 for the belay. The third pitch climbs up strait up which is easier than it looks or you can move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runnout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro. Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge. Some decent pro can be found along the way or you can just run it out to the top on easy ground. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap. Wide most of the way and kinda scary.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-08-14
Views: 1173
Route ID: 69415

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4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2008-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars WIDE

lots of fist and offwidth moves.
the roof chimney was awesome and VERY exposed. A true classic.

this route truly is a classic and wayyy too overlooked

Added: 2008-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2007-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars EE

Fisty!

Added: 2007-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: seankirsch73 on 2006-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2005-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Overlooked

3 #4's. Has a certain "Yosemiteesque" to it.

Added: 2005-09-04