Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
warren harding, et all
Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3#4's...set of nuts. A double sling usefull for the squeeze.
Eeyors Enigma is the large offwidth to the left and around the corner from Travelers Buttress and to the right of Eeyor's Extacy. Its name gives good indication of what to expect. The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge. The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong bong then out left under a short roof (crux) using fist jams and decent feet in the offwidth crack and slideing a #3 along. Back clean your gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack if you don't. Now follow a chimmney while arm baring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimmney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimmney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a small alcove. Save a #4 for the belay. The third pitch climbs up strait up which is easier than it looks or you can move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runnout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro. Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge. Some decent pro can be found along the way or you can just run it out to the top on easy ground. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap. Wide most of the way and kinda scary.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-08-14
Route ID: 69415