Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : Main Wall : Traveler Buttress
PreviousTraveler Buttress - 5.9 popular
Average Rating : 4.47 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (44)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
wide variety. A #4 Camalot will protect the offwidth.
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Pitch one starts on Tombstone ledge to the right of the corner. Climb a serrated flake (5.7) to a harder (5.8)lieback at the top. You'll finish this pitch on Main Ledge. Pitch two is a 5.9 offwidth. It's a good challenge and you can protect it with a #4 camalot placed deep in the crack. Keep it together b/c above and slightly to the left of the ow you get to a sweet hand crack, that is worth the work in the offwidth. Pitch 3 climb up and left to a fixed pin. Clip it and turn the arete. There's some exposure. Head left and around a corner to a belay of two pins that can be backed up with a .5 and .75 camalot. The last two pitches are Lover's classic. It's big dike hiking the whole way. It's like 4th class to easy 5th with a little run out, but it's almost as easy as climbing a ladder. Have fun
Submitted by: jv on 2003-10-08
Views: 2132
Route ID: 18241
Most Recent Photos
|
|
|
|
|
44 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 44 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
First pitch only
Did the pitch to Tombstone ledge
Added: 2011-08-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Fun Factor | |
Tb
If I ever need to remind myself how bad I suck at rock climbing, I will climb this again. Would actually like to see someone free climb the OW. Wished the dike hiking would go on forever! Super varied route but i'll be damned if that crack is 5.9!
Added: 2011-08-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Variety is the spice
Did this in 4 pitches. Led p2 & 4. Thoughts: p1 is sandbagged at 5.8 with some tough, physical, and insecure moves in the OW at the top. P2: I used up to a #4 and fought hard to not fall out of the brutal start but just couldn't do it as I became too exhausted. It is much harder than Pratt's Crack. Eventually I spanned over to the left crack which goes from fingers to hands and is no cakewalk in its own right due to the lack of feet. P3: Sooo fun! P4: conjoins with the end of Corrugation Corner and is wonderful, easy dike hiking. Rating: 5.9 C0 haaaa :)
Added: 2010-10-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Average
I swapped leads with a party of three. I got P1 and it was kinda boring with a move or two in the 5.8 section. I struggled a little with the OW on P2 and just went out to the 10.b and loved the rest of the pitch. Be careful a few loose rocks on this pitch. P3 was exposed but all there. P4 ladder. All in all I will not repeat.
Added: 2010-07-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
A solid route
A fun route that really isn't that hard, the off width at the beginning of the second pitch is the only part that has any meat to it. I brought up 1 c4 #5 and it wasn't scary at all, after all it's only 10 feet of awkward climbing. The upper pitches are the standard easy dike hiking. Although this route isn't that hard it is by no means a beginner 5.9 trad route.
Added: 2010-06-20
