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Traveler Buttress - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (45)
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wide variety. A #4 Camalot will protect the offwidth.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.55/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.55/5

Description:

Pitch one starts on Tombstone ledge to the right of the corner. Climb a serrated flake (5.7) to a harder (5.8)lieback at the top. You'll finish this pitch on Main Ledge. Pitch two is a 5.9 offwidth. It's a good challenge and you can protect it with a #4 camalot placed deep in the crack. Keep it together b/c above and slightly to the left of the ow you get to a sweet hand crack, that is worth the work in the offwidth. Pitch 3 climb up and left to a fixed pin. Clip it and turn the arete. There's some exposure. Head left and around a corner to a belay of two pins that can be backed up with a .5 and .75 camalot. The last two pitches are Lover's classic. It's big dike hiking the whole way. It's like 4th class to easy 5th with a little run out, but it's almost as easy as climbing a ladder. Have fun

Submitted by: jv on 2003-10-08
Views: 2627
Route ID: 18241

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45 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Walk a #5 and you'll be fine

One #4,#5 is all you need to protect the ow portion. Walk the #5 as far as you can then place the #4 and it will be very well protected. The first time I tried to tr this pitch could not do it and had to stay outside on the left. I had my lead head on and three years later after that first attempt got my red point. (I'm still yet to climb P1)

Added: 2014-08-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kachoong on 2011-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First pitch only

Did the pitch to Tombstone ledge

Added: 2011-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2011-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tb

If I ever need to remind myself how bad I suck at rock climbing, I will climb this again. Would actually like to see someone free climb the OW. Wished the dike hiking would go on forever! Super varied route but i'll be damned if that crack is 5.9!

Added: 2011-08-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: aerili on 2010-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Variety is the spice

Did this in 4 pitches. Led p2 & 4. Thoughts: p1 is sandbagged at 5.8 with some tough, physical, and insecure moves in the OW at the top. P2: I used up to a #4 and fought hard to not fall out of the brutal start but just couldn't do it as I became too exhausted. It is much harder than Pratt's Crack. Eventually I spanned over to the left crack which goes from fingers to hands and is no cakewalk in its own right due to the lack of feet. P3: Sooo fun! P4: conjoins with the end of Corrugation Corner and is wonderful, easy dike hiking. Rating: 5.9 C0 haaaa :)

Added: 2010-10-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: thecornyman on 2010-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Average

I swapped leads with a party of three. I got P1 and it was kinda boring with a move or two in the 5.8 section. I struggled a little with the OW on P2 and just went out to the 10.b and loved the rest of the pitch. Be careful a few loose rocks on this pitch. P3 was exposed but all there. P4 ladder. All in all I will not repeat.

Added: 2010-07-12

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