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Under the Big Top - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Karl McConachie, Jay Smith (1981)
Rock (Trad)
G
Cams .4"-4" Nuts 1set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Climb up the first pitch of Eeyors enigma then traverse out right under the large roof for two pitchs. The first pitch starts out hard with a big reach, then continues up sustained fingers and hands with a few releaf foot holds. Finally the pitch looses the feet wich become under cut and you have to traverse past a wide pod (crux). Most people burrow into the pod for a quick rest before making a few more sustained moves to the anchor (fixed pin and nut). The second pitch is a bit easier with good hands and the occasional good foot. End on the anchors of Travelers Buttress. Stiff for .10d.... very sustained.

Descent Options:

You can continue up Travelers, bring a second rope and rap from the Travelers anchors or make a short rap down to the anchors of Purple Haze and rap to the ground from there. The Purple Haze anchors are comprised of a fixed pin, fixed nut and jammed knot.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-09-09
Views: 800
Route ID: 88398

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

I liked this. Pretty sustained on the first pitch, and more than a few pigeon bones.

Added: 2013-09-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2008-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Yeah a real classic....

Salamanizer is right about it being harder than Gram traverse. more sustained. I wedged as much of myself as i could in the pod and really had to milk some rest out of it by isolating different parts of the body. amazing good time and glad i didn't peel multiple spots. Much more sustained than the 11.c mainline which i redpointed right before this so it seemed harder.

Added: 2008-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sandbagg

Harder than the Gram traverse but cleaner and more fun. This is a classic leap route. Hard and sustained but lots of options for pro and safe. Got my ass kicked and I just onsighted Freak Show at .11c/d to give you some perspective. None of the moves are that hard, it's just really sustained.

Added: 2007-09-09