Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : Main Wall : Under the Big Top
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Under the Big Top - 5.10d
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Karl McConachie, Jay Smith (1981)
Rock (Trad)
G
Cams .4"-4" Nuts 1set.
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Description:
Climb up the first pitch of Eeyors enigma then traverse out right under the large roof for two pitchs. The first pitch starts out hard with a big reach, then continues up sustained fingers and hands with a few releaf foot holds. Finally the pitch looses the feet wich become under cut and you have to traverse past a wide pod (crux). Most people burrow into the pod for a quick rest before making a few more sustained moves to the anchor (fixed pin and nut). The second pitch is a bit easier with good hands and the occasional good foot. End on the anchors of Travelers Buttress. Stiff for .10d.... very sustained.Descent Options:
You can continue up Travelers, bring a second rope and rap from the Travelers anchors or make a short rap down to the anchors of Purple Haze and rap to the ground from there. The Purple Haze anchors are comprised of a fixed pin, fixed nut and jammed knot.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-09-09
Views: 200
Route ID: 88398
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Yeah a real classic....
Salamanizer is right about it being harder than Gram traverse. more sustained. I wedged as much of myself as i could in the pod and really had to milk some rest out of it by isolating different parts of the body. amazing good time and glad i didn't peel multiple spots. Much more sustained than the 11.c mainline which i redpointed right before this so it seemed harder.
Added: 2008-10-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Sandbagg
Harder than the Gram traverse but cleaner and more fun. This is a classic leap route. Hard and sustained but lots of options for pro and safe. Got my ass kicked and I just onsighted Freak Show at .11c/d to give you some perspective. None of the moves are that hard, it's just really sustained.
Added: 2007-09-09
