Start by climbing up into the white scoop any number of ways, via the first pitch of the North Face route (5.7), Stem Meister (.10a) or Yankee Dog (.11) Form the white scoops anchors, move the belay left up and around the corner to a small ledge with a corner that takes limited gear. Climb this corner (.10) and make an awkward traverse out right to a ramp and either belay here or continue up, watching your rope drag. The next section starts up a left leaning overhanging hand crack (.10c hard variation) or up a steep corner just to the right (original .10a) then continues up a very steep corner system that you'll need to use nearly every trick in the book to ascend. Build an anchor where you can sling a huge horn just below the final roof section. The next pitch climbs over this small roof where the angle backs off quickly and follows crack systems over and around bulges with good gear and much easier climbing. Build an anchor where you can. A short easy pitch leads to the top.
Rap from the huge horn (bring long slings to back up tat) or continue to the top and walk off.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-07-03
Route ID: 100653
I tried the .10c flared hands variation(will be back) but got shut down so I opted for the standard .10 start. The upper part of the first pitch has great exposure, awesome moves, and is nice fun climbing. If you plan on only doing the first pitch bring some webbing(4ft) so you can bail back to the lower anchors.
Climbed the first pitch of the North Face route which is an obvious 5.7 right facing corner studded with huge dikes. Moved the belay left up and around the corner which puts you at a small ledge about 30ft from the first pitch of Corrugation Corner. A difficult .10 crack and traverse lead me to an easy ramp which I climbed to it's end and found the steep hand crack. I climbed the .10c variation hand crack which was a little flairing and much harder than any .10c I'd climbed at the leap thus far. Though short, the crack lead into a long suttle corner system full of interesting climbing, stemming, mantles, liebacks, hand jams and face climbing to get through. The belay was more or less a hanging belay on a huge slung horn and gear. The next two pitches to the top were uneventful easy 5.6 climbing on rock that got more dirty and rotten as you went up. Easy last two pitches though. Best to just simul climb to the top if doing those pitches as a 60m rope wont make it. You may be able to link the last two pitches with a 70m rope though. A really fun route though it's only one good pitch. But that pitch kicks ass.