Three pitch route that starts up a low angle well protected 5.8 slab just to the right of Hospital Corner. The first pitch starts up easy ground with some pro before you commit to the actual slab. Several bolts protect the face climbing well to a two bolt anchor with chains. Pitch two starts up a short crack and cuts out right on a strenuous lieback undercling (crux) and pulls into a finger crack lieback where the difficulty quickly backs off. An intermediate (optional) anchor is passed and you continue climbing up a corner system with good gear to the next anchor a short distance above.
Pitch three climbs up a steep corner/face system well protected by bolts for a short distance until the angle quickly backs off past huge jugs. No anchor on the last pitch.
Continue climbing to the top of West wall via several ways or skip the last pitch and rap from the anchors of the second pitch. It is possible to downclimb easy 5th class dikes to the second pitch anchors of Nirvana or Hospital Corner.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-06-16
Route ID: 100319
The crux undercling has bad feet and worse hands. The first pitch is really fun for a 5.8-, the second pitch is really good as well. Fun climbing on face moves, liebacks, handjams, fingerlocks you name it. Lots of variety on the pitch with not too hard of climbing after the crux. An intermediate anchor splits the second pitch, why it is there I have no idea. The last pitch starts out really fun but quickly backs off to low angle junk. It would be a better route if an anchor was added to the top of the last pitch and one of the intermediate anchors on the second pitch were eliminated. You could even link the second and third pitches into one 200ft super pitch. It would allow you to rappel the route without skipping the last pitch as well, which isn't worth climbing unless you're planning on going to the top.