Obvious splitter crack up the west wall about 50 feet to the right of Hospital Corner and the Gamoke. Start by gaining access to the ledge any number of ways. Once on the narrow ledge, start up the short lieback flake and onto some good hand jams. About half way up you'll reach a small buldge. Place good pro here because up above in the splitter crack for about 30 feet the crack goes hollow inside and makes for some sketchy pro. April fools, get it? Don't worry though, its not that bad. Any solid .9 leader will have no problem sending this one. Once on the ledge above you can leave slings behind and rap back down to the ledge on two 60m ropes or continue up 5.7R to the top of the wall by zig zaging up the wall and finding pro where you can get it. Its really exposed the whole time, good stuff.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-06-02
Route ID: 77111
Second pitch is spectacular and protects well. You just have to place cams shallow on the lieback/jam flake so they don't drop inside. Fortunatey the first pitch is runout and not very nice. I say fortunately because it means no waiting in line.
The first pitch is 5.7/5.8 R ish, the second pitch is the awesome splitter that doesn't allow for pro for a good 25 feet in the middle, pretty mellow climbing though. I was feeling like an adventure so I did the last 2 pitches that zig zag to the top on easy territory with minimal gear. Although this route is clearly R any confident 5.9 leader will cruise it, A MUST DO!!!!