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Craven Image - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
Cams, .5"-3" Nuts 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This route is found on the far left side of the West Wall between April Fools and Captain Coconuts. Start in a prominate dirty left facing corner and wind your way to a small ledge and over it into a small alcove. You can avoid the first pitch by climbing around (3rd class) to the far right up a ramp and traversing in to the left past the start of Vanishing Point. From this alcove, head strait up over some large dikes and knobs making an exciting mantle to a promanite cresent shaped crack covered by large dikes which moves off to the left. Stay in this crack which quickly widens into a chimmney system. (This is the same start as Lady Bug.) Work your way up the chimney to a fixed pin and belay here. Now, instead of continuing up the chimney (lady bug) move out right on large dikes up a series of cracks up the steep face. This section looks unprotected but a series of cracks presents themselves just when you start to worry. Continue up to a small ledge where you climb over a short bulge to gain a larger ledge in the bowl, belay here. Now follow a crack off to the left of this bowl to another large ledge. From here you can go any number of ways to the top.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-09-30
Views: 813
Route ID: 80053

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: thechef on 2005-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Var.

Another variation to craven image heads up the chimney/gully past the pin and belays to the left of the large detached flake 35 ft above the pin. P3 starts up the groove above the belay, mandatory 40 foot runout on sustained 5.6 with a splash of .7 to a good crack system. after 110 feet or so move left onto the large sandy ledge directly under the bowl. Finish with p4, a superb line moving up and right of the bowl, through 5.7 wide cracks under the roofs. Pull onto last roof section (airy) and finish at the top. I dont know the exact line for craven image, carville guidebook shows a line. Either way I have climbed it twice both times different and fun in thier own right. Its hard not to find a way up around 5.8 anywhere!

Added: 2007-07-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2006-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Classic

Another hidden gem at the leap.

Added: 2006-09-09