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Third Stone From the Sun - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Jay Smith, Richard Harrison, Steve Miller (1977)
Rock (Trad)
G
2
Cams .5"- 3" One 4" and 5" cam for roof. Nuts 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Third Stone starts up a right facing corner just to the right of Vanishing point and directly below the overhanging offwidth roofs above. Climb a series of interesting corner system full of hands, fingers and stemming. Make a short step right and continue up the corner system to a hanging belay around a slung horn. The next pitch climbs a delicate funky corner system to just below the roof. Fist jams and a series of three chockstones help to gain purchase in this wildly overhanging roof crack. Make a series of Houdini moves while struggling to conserve your power around the chockstones and out the top of the roof where the difficulty quickly backs off. Belay around the corner to the right in a horizontal crack.

Descent Options:

Rappel from sketchy anchors or downclimb/lead easy 5th class to the anchors of Vanishing point to the (climbers) left. Or continue up the west wall any number of ways several wandering pitches to the top.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-09-09
Views: 449
Route ID: 101624

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2009-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Way burley

The first pitch had some sketchy loose blocks on it but nothing too bad. Wild steep 5.10 climbing up a dihedral much like the first pitch of North Country. The second pitch was some steep stemming up a difficult to protect corner which eventually forced me to traverse left around an arete and climb the face to a makeshift anchor just below the roof. I clipped the anchor and started fist jamming out the roof to the first chockstone which was a hell of a reach. Took a couple of trys but I eventually grabbed it, shoved my leg up in roof and locked my knee in. The first chockstone was a bit wobbly but felt like it wouldn't come out. The second chockstone was a solid welcomed rest. Totally horizontal, knee locked and clutching the middle chockstone I struggled to move an inch. The last (3rd stone) was a loose block about the size of a toaster which I was certain was going to pull out. Try not to pull it out as you need it to progress upward and if it pulls it will fall strait for your belayer. I made a houdini move or two, got my foot up and pulled out of the roof to a huge ledge. Totally spent and ready to vomit I built an anchor in a bomber crack. Way burley, committing, gnarley and totally fun. I can't believe I actually got the onsight. You gotta fight for it.

Added: 2009-09-09