Large obvious chimney between captain coconuts and the banana characterized by its two wide overhanging roofs. Begin up the chimney with good pro and slide a piece up as you go. This moves into a sustained fist crack to a small ledge. Rest here and continue up in a wide hands crack or lie it back to a bolt about 30 feet below the two roofs. Get a good rest in then continue up to just under the roofs, girth hitch a scary pin (or better yet, get some gear in) then traverse out left and move around the arete to the bolts on Captain Coconuts. One bolt is good, the other is a manky 1/4 incher. Feel free to replace it. Rap down Captain Coconuts with two 60m ropes. A variation can be done by building an anchor at the bolt and continueing out right for some extriemly wild, exciting and exposed traversing under the wide roofs. Climbing under the roofs is sustained and finishes with a well protected but awkward 5.11+ move or two.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-06-12
Route ID: 71343
classic 5.9 chimney to an awesom 5.9 fists section. New bolt anchor as of 2007. Don't know who put it there but it has rap rings. Second pitch is the business. splitter .10b lieback or fist jamming. The escape to the anchors around the corner of the first roof is an exillerating finish, but the traverse under the roofs is the real glory of the route. Not sure if this was the origional route or what, but it's one hell of a committing finish. Pulling the final roof on this traverse is probably more like 5.11+.